Search for Cloud Forrest

SO much to say since my last post. In a nutshell we are still on the road (not damaged by any mudslides), we are now in Peru after overstaying a little in Ecuador. As I said before missed the Galapagos because of the cost and deferred the Amazon till Bolivia.

To start with we head east out of Quito to the hot springs of Papallacta where we soaked up the sun and steam under the blue skies while surrounded by lush green mountains and an old snowcapped volcano. We even managed to try the Finnish trick of diving between the steaming hot pools and the Arctic cold river water (Very Invigorating) while be watched by the bemused Quitoans. Ros was intent on seeing a cloud forrest since being in the S.American Explorer's club (probably to find out what one is) so we walked a few kms up a hill, only to be bitterly disappointed due to a stark absence of the fluffy white things (not sheep).

We dragged ourselves away to the backwater of Baeza further into the Oriente to further our search of the elusive Cloud Forest  We tried to sleep while the local disco blared downstairs from our hostel and then chickened out of the walk due to our lack of Amazonian trekking boots (aka Gumboots).

Next was Tenna where the first mission was to procure the 'essential' amazonian trekking shoes. Those in hand we took our first baby steps into the amazon. There was reports of a volunteer work with rescued animals somewhere out there but we had no contact details. The best advice we had was land at the doorstep and see what happens. That was hw we ended up being stuck in the middle of nowhere surrounded by dog poo (slowly being consumed by a chicken) waiting for a bus back to civilisation. The place had a web site but how were we to know. They suggested that next time we should email instead of just rocking up and saying 'throw me some cute animals to rehabilitate'. At least we got a ride in a river canoe.

We picked ourselves back up and continued south to the hot springs town of Baños, which we didn't even try (spoilt in Papallacta). We (Ros) did partake in the local toffees with gusto. The volcano here has settled down so much that they don't even take night tours out to see the fireworks anymore ;)

Next was Riobamba!! This is a place where you should come and go as quickly as possible. The gringos come because there is a train ride from here, the only bit of the national line still operational. We crashed at the nearest hostel. The next morning we moved from this really run down old colonial building to the run down colonial on the opposite side of the railway station. So what did we get for the extra 50c? Clean sheets (we saw them being dragged from the line), peep holes (everywhere), and of course peeping toms. It still suffered the water shortages endemic of the town and was generally a draughty, noisy dump. This is where my body chose to fight WW3 in my bowels for 2 days. Ros's conversation with me deteriorated to dicussions on the state of my aforementioned bowels and my only exercise was to cross the hall to the aforementioned waterless bathroom. We missed all the 'sights' of the town but not the wild enthusiasm of every Riobamban flooding the streets with a torent of honking cars and flags when Ecuador beat Peru in the soccer (nothing was said when Oz beat brasil). Even the rooster in room 14 got into the act crowed all day (yes you read it right). Finally I was fit enough to ride atop the train.

The train ride started as expected; gringos came out of the woodwork and grappled for every bit of roof space available like bargain hunters at a clearance sale while the locals watched on in confused amazement. We were nicely settled in the misty rain when a bus load of Swedes in a tour group showed up and packed us in shoulder to shoulder. The trip to 'The Devils Nose' was generally unspectacular bar a few precipitous drops and of course the inevitable derailments. For the first derailment everyone poured of the train to see the engineers run the train back and forth across the wooden sleepers (ripping them apart) over some steel sleds until they popped the wheels back on the tracks. By the 4th derailment we were so nonplussed that we just sat back and waited to get on with it. Others had given up and started walking the 2hrs back to the stopping point (they were bad luck anyhows). The second derailment was a doosie made more interesting by a Scottish engineer who ceaslessly offered his advice in broken spanish while looking on with a pensive frown (needless to say he was completely ignored).

Then there was a brief visit to El Tambo and the ruins of Ingapirca. We arrived there late with our newly acquired Belgian friends. It started bad by being dropped off at the bottom of the hill 5 blocks down from the only hostel. We trapped back. Ros had 2 restaurants picked out from our ever handy guide book so we avoided the one across the street and allowed fate to determine our direction (uphill of course) with the toss of a coin. So after a solid 20min climb in the dark we came to the truck stop diner. Ros and I naturally avoided the beef, just having beans and rice. This was a good thing because the Belgians couldn't stomach it when it arrived. The chickens feet soup was OK if you closed your eyes. When we had made it back down the hill, fending of dogs with any largish piece of rock that came to hand we saw outside the restaurant across the road... the Swedish tour group's bus (perhaps they did serve 1/2 decent chow :(

Ahhh Cuenca. Dumped everything at our hostel and wandered out to see the impressive churches lit up against an imposing black sky. We checked out 2 movies for $1.50 one being set in Ecuador that had some guy taken hostage (Proof of Life) which we at first convinced ourselves was Columbia. This finished at about 12:30 at night. That is how we came to be banging on our hostel door at 1am trying to raise anyone to let us in.We had drunk NOTHING (honest) and it is not as if we are not rocket scientists but it seemed impossible that this key, which turned in the lock, would open the bloody door. So we stormed off to some posh hotel with the intent of ringing the dead within. No luck, it wasn't listed! I cursed myself for not carrying the flyer, we thanked the doorman for his phonebook, and we stormed back to try our bank vault again. It was another round of banging and bell ringing and fiddling with the key. Finally, probably due to divine self pity for some peace, a particular combination of jiggling, turning, tongue placement and obscenities gave us entry to some sleep. I will say NOTHING futher!

Then it was to Vilacabamba, hippie town. Where the old hippies have cut their hair and settled in to respectable jobs (read profitable jobs that include voting the 'new hippies' out of town and poisoning dogs). We finally had some Cloud forest to explore. Ros was bouncing with anticipation ;) We didn't make it as far as the 14km due mainly to the gale force winds but we did camp up on the parimo (high plain) for one night. Absolute dreamlike walk back across the spine of the mountain range with the wind forcing the cloud up and over us. It entombed us like a spider in a web but instead of some stifling mummification I revelled in the feeling of isolation. Each step toward the next crest seemed like it was carrying me toward a bottomless abyss.

Oh as an asside have any of you travellers noticed this. I don't know whether it is a fashion trend, poor football technique or due to a proliferation of rhinoplasty surgeons (nose job) but there are far to much plaster on noses in Ecuador. We have noticed it since Pto Lopez and any theories or hypotheses would be greatly appreciated, haven't had the guts to ask myself.

So now we are in Peru (Chiclayo) having done the ruins thing and are waiting for a bus to Cajamarca to do some more. Hopefully something interesting will happen to us soon so I can tell you about it ;)